Copyright © by May DeLory My visit to the historic village of Castrillo de los Polvazares in the province of Leon (Castilla y Leon, Spain) was made all the more memorable due to the sudden appearance of three women rounding a corner on a cobble lane with bikes. I was in Spain walking a small part of the pilgrims’ ancient route Saint James’s Way on the Camino de Santiago or The French Way. I had begun in Pamplona, a city of approximately 180,000 people. These women were biking the French Way Camino. I only had seconds to ask where the women were from before I had to catch up with my bus tour group. The women mentioned they were from Holland. I asked if I could take their photo. They smiled and said “yes.” The sign used to direct pilgrims along the route to the end point – the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia – is the scallop shell. The shell is placed all along the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims wear the shell, too. Notice shells on the back of one bike.
The castle of Javier is one of the many outstanding monuments available to discover on the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago. The castle is an important landmark in the heritage of Navarre, the birthplace of Saint Francis Xavier (7 April 1506), who was one of the founders of the Society of Jesuits, and today the patron saint of the region. The castle of Javier is a real fortress with public entrance. The views of the landscape from the uppermost tower are breathtaking. The castle was built as an Arab Fortress in the 10th century. The stronghold was nearly all but destroyed in the 16th century when Navarre lost its independence. Restoration took place in the 20th century; and in 1986 the castle was restored again and operated as a museum in 1986. The castle of Javier is maintained by Jesuit priests. The castle of Javier is a place of pilgrimage on its own as many Navarrese walk hundreds of kilometres every year to honour their patron saint.
My first trip to Spain found a country rich with artistic heritage. I was with a small group of people to research the Road to Compostela, or Saint James’s Way of the pilgrims. The Road to Compostela was in 1987 declared “First European Cultural Itinerary” by the Council of Europe. In 1993 the UNESCO named it as “World Heritage“. We began the Camino de Santiago in Pamplona near the French border. But it was in the city of Burgos after visiting the Cathedral of Burgos that I noticed this woman sitting quietly against the Cathedral. At first I walked away, camera in hand; but decided to ask her if I could take her picture. As I came nearer her I saw that she was blind. So I dug into my purse and came up with the few coins that I had. I placed these coins in her cup and then at her slight nod of approval snapped just one photo of her.
One would think that the Camino would shower pilgrims with the opportunity to acquire a walking stick or other equipment at regular intervals. This is not the case. When you see an opportunity to purchase Camino items, equipment, or souvenirs make use of it as it may be quite the distance before you get the opportunity again. Of course you should not attempt any distance on the Camino without first planning your adventure. Spring is said to be the best of times to begin the pilgrimage. Temperatures are mild with much rich colour dotting the landscape. Summer months see overcrowded shelters and hotels due to people’s holidays. In spring and fall you may run into a bit of rain but certainly not the heat of summer.
Prepare and plan your route before you begin. Not all travellers begin a pilgrimage for religious reasons but for cultural reasons. Any of the routes along the Santiago Way offer incredible opportunity to get up close and personal with the Spain of today or of ancient times. You’ll need passport, credits cards and a bit of cash, hiking boots that are already broken in, trainers if you are just going to walk for a few hours, change of clothing for overnight walks, hat, sunglasses and sun cream, light weight snack, and water bottle. If you are not staying in a hotel but a hostel you will want some personal items like soap and a set of cutlery.
I suggest checking out a restored monastery for overnight accommodation, especially if you suffer with some sort of allergy as stone and high quality organic material seem to offer some relief. www.parador.es I enjoyed overnight accommodation in Hospederia del Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña http://bit.ly/zBdrZg high on a cliff with views to the Pyrenean mountains in the region of Aragón. The dining room is excellent. After a fire in the 17th century at the original monastery of San Juan de la Peña the new monastery was created in 1675. The Old Monastery is built into a rock face far below the New Monastery which is high atop a giant rock formation some would consider a mountain. Tours are available at the Old Monastery of San Juan de la Peña. You will never forget the experience. Stay overnight far above the Old Monastery if you can spare the time as there is a museum of such extraordinary excellence which depicts the way of life of the original inhabitants of the Old Monastery. One of the most enjoyable experiences while staying at the New Monastery was walking part of The French Santiago Way which passes through the wooded area surrounding the monastery. You’ll see very old stone buildings, some all but a few crumbling stones; but, the feeling these old structures emit is something very difficult to describe — one needs to see it to feel it. I’ve always loved very old architecture as there seems to be a silent voice smiling down upon me. These two monasteries are extremely popular especially in the high tourist season. www.monasteriosanjuan.com
Much information is available at your local office of tourism for Spain. Since there are several pilgrims’ routes to Santiago de Compostela I suggest research at one of the websites: www.spain.info www.lariojaturismo.com http://www.turgalicia.es www.turismo.navarra.es www.tourspain.es www.atourz.ca www.reaj.com www.parador.es If you love history, excellent wine and food you’ll never forget your adventure in Spain, any way you decide to do it. You may even wish to complete part of the Camino by train. www.eurailtravel.com
Senorio de Villarrica, Hervias, La Rioja
We said our fond goodbyes to the monasteries of San Juan de la Peña and headed by bus to the region of La Rioja. The French Way covers about 65 kilometres in La Rioja but here is where you’ll find Spain’s world renowned grape growing region. The French Santiago Way of Saint James is one of two routes to pass through this region. Another follows the river Ebro along the ancient Roman road which connects the Mediterranean to Castilla in south east La Rioja. I suggest an overnight stay in a parador. Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a restored hospital offering luxurious accommodation in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Major cultural events are held inside the cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The cathedral dates to 1158. It is here you may discover the story of the most famous miracle of the Santiago Way. In part the story tells why a hen and a cock still live inside the cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The oldest association of its kind in the world was founded in the twelfth century to assist pilgrims as they made their way on foot along the Santiago Way: La Cofradia del Santo. Visit La Cofradia del Santo in La Casa del Santo in the city of Santo Domingo. At the monasteries of Suso and Yuso, World Heritage Sites, is evidence of two tenth century monks who dared to write notes in ancient Spanish and Basque in the margine of Latin texts called the Códice Emilianense 46 and 60. Caves within the Monastery of Suso were converted into simple chapels. The Room of Language at the Monastery of Yuso holds the first words written in Spanish. In La Rioja you’ll not only have the opportunity to learn about the Spanish language you’ll be uniquely exposed to Riojan flavours of wine and food. At the end of every day explore a place to eat and enjoy Spanish wine. My tour group stopped at two particular wineries: Señorio de Villarrica where four generations of wine makers educate and entertain you. www.villarrica.es It’s a large operation and very modern, just off N-120 highway. You’ll find an art gallery devoted to wine. If you love the elegant wines of Tempranillo as I myself do you should not miss a side trip to this vineyard. As well, Señorio de Villarrica is well situated in the middle of Camino de Santiago if your interest falls to the Valdezcaray Ski Resort and Cirueña Golf Resort. Don Jacobo winery was founded over a hundred years ago by Saturnino Daroca. In the fifties, the Bodega built new cellars in Navarrete; it on the original pilgrims’ route known as “Ruta Jacobea”. Touring the vines on horseback is very popular. Don Jacobo’s single estate Altos de Corral offers a wine of limited production with less than 10.000 bottles selected per vintage. Single Estate pairs extremely well with red meat, stewed dishes, suckling pig, fish and roasted lamb. Don Jacobo has won many awards. www.donjacobo.es
On the outskirts of Pamplona-Iruna, in the region of Navarra, is a centuries-old bridge built especially for pilgrims over which to cross on their way to the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Puente la Reina (bridge of the queen, owning to the fact Queen Mayor on the Arga ordered the construction of the bridge) is today’s entrance onto the St. James French Way Camino to Santiago. I met a man beneath the bridge as I made my way along a path. The man did not speak or understand my language, English; but, he himself felt what I was asking of him. He nodded his approval for a picture to be taken by me. He caught a fish just as I began to make my way down the dirt path. I turned and he smiled at me and held up his catch. Not too big but the smile made up for the size of the fish. I took another picture and he smiled even wider.
The province of Navarra is a varied landscape over which to cross. There are the fertile plains of the Ebro valley that open up to a transitional mountain range. Pamplona westward is Atlantic Navarra with green valleys, meadows and woods. Eastwards the landscape becomes unruly with long verdant valleys which then reveal the Pyrenees mountain range in the north and its Scots pine and beech.
FYI
Antonio Gala – poet, novelist — a Spanish writer who many say has an inate understanding of the female soul. The Antonio Gala Foundation helps beginning creators with an opportunity to improve their craft. http://www.antoniogala.es/entrada.php
http://lesailes.hermes.com/us/en/ Spring 2012 Hermes jumping canvas and calfskin boots in cyclamen and white and other lovely shades in which to dance, ride, swing, relax and kick up your heels.
Sarita Montiel – a Spanish beauty born in Campo de Criptana, a province of Ciudad Real – an internationally successful recording and film personality. Montiel was discovered when she was eleven when she attended a holy week celebration in the small town of Orihuela. She made the film Vera Cruz with Gary Cooper and Burt Lancaster; and Serenade with Mario Lanza and Joan Fontaine.
http://www.parador.es/en/portal.do
www.turismocastillayleon.com (Burgos, Leon)
www.cfnavarra.es/turismonavarra
www.xacobeo.es (Galicia: St. James in Galicia)
www.catedraldepamplona.com Begin The Way in the city of Pamplona, Spain at the Town Hall clock. You’ll be in the town square where the running of the bulls each year in July begins, too. Don’t forget to check out one of the most beautiful “man holes” outside the cathedral. Roman baths were built beneath the streets near the cathedral. Enter the cathedral and notice a statue of Christ on the wall…hidden for more than two-hundred years.
An excellent Spanish red wine to pair with a tomato-based meal with meat (especially morcilla (black pudding) and cecina (thin slices of beef from the hind legs of the cow which is salted, smoked and air-dried) is a 2005 Bodegas Balbas Ribera del Duero Reserva Castilla y León.
Why not enjoy a tour of some of Spain’s Le Rioja region vineyards’ while on a cycle tour? www.villarrica.es Vineyard tours, tasting seminars/wine courses, private wine cellar for customer storage, wine shop.
www.donjacobo.es Vineyard tours, tasting sessions/courses, wine shop. If you are travelling alone…no need to worry. Wine tours are perfect for singles, too. Ask about Don Jacobo vine tours on horseback.
